List of dangerous ingredients in your cosmetics

In February 2016, the consumer association UFC Que Choisir revealed a list of 185 cosmetic products formulated with toxic substances found in supermarkets. Since then, the list has grown, and today there are nearly 400 products containing one or more undesirable ingredients such as allergenic substances or endocrine disruptors.

What is the INCI list?

The INCI list stands for International Nomenclature Cosmetics Ingredients. It is a regulatory nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients. All ingredients present in the formula must be listed in descending order of concentration, from most to least present.

It is important not to confuse the list of active ingredients highlighted for their benefits with this INCI list, which is a complete list of all ingredients used (active ingredients, preservatives, and other additives).

Therefore, you should look for the INCI list on the packaging of your cosmetics or on the e-commerce website for your online purchases. Generally, it is preceded by the mention "Ingredients:" on the packaging.

To help you decipher this list, we have grouped the main families of ingredients whose toxicity is disputed below.

What is an endocrine disruptor?

Endocrine disruptors act in a previously unseen mode of toxicity. Hormones affect the hormonal system at extremely low doses, meaning there is no threshold dose for these toxic substances. Furthermore, we are exposed to a multitude of substances (food, cosmetics, packaging, paints, etc.) which together can produce a harmful "cocktail effect". These interactions between different substances and the very long delay in the appearance of toxicity signs make it even more difficult to develop evidence and implement regulations for endocrine disruptors. Added to these difficulties is the influence of the chemical industry lobby...

Another characteristic of these substances is that they are particularly toxic to growing organisms. Therefore, they should be eliminated as a priority for pregnant women, children, and adolescents.

Parabens

Among the endocrine disruptors are parabens (a contraction of parahydroxybenzoate). As antimicrobial preservatives, present in 99% of cosmetics in 2012, they are rapidly absorbed by the skin. These substances are also allergenic. They can be found in the INCI list under the names methylparaben, sodium methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben, phenylparaben, and other -paraben suffixes. Since the media scandal surrounding parabens, manufacturers often boast about the "paraben-free" label. However, be careful to check which ingredients they have been replaced with (phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, toluene).

Fragrances

Synthetic fragrances are also endocrine disruptors. On cosmetic packaging, only the mention "fragrance" is found, not the detailed composition, which is protected by "industrial secret". These synthetic fragrances have hormonal effects on estrogenic activity and disrupt thyroid function. They are also bioaccumulative and toxic to the environment.

Monitor the ingredient list on your packaging and avoid products containing the term "fragrance" when it is not specified as *of natural origin.

Triclosan

Triclosan, widely present in toothpastes, is a toxic preservative that affects thyroid function (an endocrine disruptor) and forms carcinogenic residues. It is also bioaccumulative, meaning the body cannot eliminate it. It is listed as triclosan on the INCI list.

Sunscreen Filters

Sunscreen filters protect the skin from the sun's UV rays. They can be chemical, acting by absorbing UV rays, or physical, by repelling them. Chemical filters are endocrine disruptors. They are also present in many cosmetic products that are not intended to protect from the sun. They can be identified in the INCI list by the suffixes -cinnamate, -benzophenone, -resorcinol, -octocrylene, -benzylidine camphor.

Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing substances are irritating, allergenic, and carcinogenic. As a preservative, they cannot exceed a concentration of 0.2% in formulas, but they can reach up to 5% in nail polishes. They are listed under the names formaldehyde, formol, formalin, formic aldehyde, paraform, methanal, methyl aldehyde, methylene oxide, oxymethylene, oxomethane, dmdm hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, bronopol, diazolidinyl urea.

Silicones

Their function is to form a film on the surface of the skin or hair. They are conditioners, lubricants, emulsifiers, and sometimes also anti-foaming agents. They may impair fertility and contain toxic residues. They are recognizable by their ending in -one or -ane, such as dimethicone.

Mineral Oils

Mineral oils, used as pseudo-moisturizers, form an occlusive film that prevents natural evaporation, known as perspiration. They promote the appearance of comedones and alter the natural hydrolipidic film. They can be contaminated by heavy metals and carcinogenic hydrocarbon molecules. They are present under the names mineral oil, cera microcristallina, synthetic wax, paraffin, petrolatum, ceresin, ozokerite, vaseline, isohexadecane, and polyisobutene.
Therefore, prefer products containing vegetable oils, which are richer and better assimilated by the skin.

Acrylates

Acrylates are thickeners, they provide "bulk" and are film-forming agents. They are irritating to the skin and mucous membranes, and can induce allergies. They may be carcinogenic, neurotoxic, reprotoxic, and environmentally contaminating. Their name contains the word "acrylate", such as acrylate copolymer or acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

Nitrosamine

Certain surfactant preservatives found in many hygiene and care products may release nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic and highly toxic to bacteria and mammals.
DEA, TEA, bronopol, triethanolamine, lecithin cocamidopropyl betaine, stearalkonium hectorite, aminomethyl propanol, sodium pca, cocamide mea, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, Hydrogenated lecithin, cocamide dea.
These ingredients should therefore be monitored on the INCI list.

Ethylene oxide and glycol ethers

Ethylene oxide is carcinogenic and contributes to the formation of glycol ethers. These preservatives are often used to replace parabens. They are irritating, allergenic, carcinogenic, and endocrine disruptors. They are listed under the names phenoxyethanol, polyethylene glycol, easily recognizable by the prefix - PEG, polypropylene glycol prefix -PPG, macrogol, poloxamer.

Anionic detergents

Excellent detergents and known for their strong foaming power, they are contained in many hygiene products. Anionic detergents are irritating to the skin and eyes, and can be contaminated by carcinogenic ethylene oxide residues. They are recognized by the presence of the suffix ETH, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium, laureth sulfate, sodium coceth sulfate, sodium oleth sulfate, but also nonylphenol and ingredients ending in -oxynol and hydroxyethyl-.

Tip: If you see Latin names in the ingredient list, these are plant names. If you only have English names among the first ingredients on the INCI list, there is a high probability that the base of your product is of synthetic origin (silicone, mineral oils).

Alaena, organic cosmetics certified Ecocert Cosmos Organic

At Alaena, respecting your health and the environment is part of our DNA, as it is essential for our health and that of our children. This involves control at all stages of the product development process, from sourcing raw materials, through manufacturing with control of discharges, to the finished product and its packaging.

Only an external certifying body guarantees this and protects against greenwashing. That's why we chose the European Ecocert Cosmos Organic label for the certification of our products.

To go further and as a precautionary principle, we are ahead of cosmetic regulations. Our product formulas are among the most skin and environment friendly on the market and exclude all of the toxic ingredients mentioned above.