Science at the service of the skin

At Alaena, we honor the power of nature and the excellence of science to offer high-quality skincare. Through biotechnology, we extract concentrated active ingredients from plants and seeds to create highly effective formulas.

Dr. Sylvie Peres is one of the few dermatologists of her generation to have become aware of the dangers of toxic ingredients in cosmetics. As the creator of all Alaena formulas, she shares in this article her fascinating work in searching for innovative natural active ingredients, such as the patented COMPLEX G5® active, and the perpetual challenge of combining safety and efficacy in her formulas.

Thanks to her dermatological expertise and biotechnological innovation, Alaena develops highly concentrated skincare products designed for targeted regeneration and lasting protection of the skin.

Tell us about COMPLEX G5®, your patented active ingredient.

Dr. Sylvie Peres: Our active ingredient was developed from the extraction of sprouted seeds. We created complementary combinations of 5 seeds from chia, flax, wheat, oat, green soy, amaranth, and buckwheat. Each seed provides a variety of essential amino acids, vitamins, and antioxidants.

We have patented this active ingredient as well as its extraction process based on green chemistry, without chemical solvents, which meets the specifications of the Ecocert Cosmos Organic label.

Discover the COMPLEX G5® selection

Explain the principle of germination and why it is beneficial for the skin?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: With age, the body absorbs fewer vital nutrients (vitamins and co-factors, antioxidants). Nutrition provides nutrients via the blood vessels to the dermis. Since the epidermis is not vascularized, we provide them directly to the surface of the epidermis in the form of biomolecules thanks to the sprouted seed extract.

Once sprouted, each seed provides a variety of essential acids and antioxidants, necessary for the skin to flourish. Germination, a symbol of life, increases the level of vitamins, mainly those of the B group, and amino acids—particularly prolamines, which allow for collagen production. Once sprouted, the seed releases these micronutrients; it is a concentrate of life with precious regenerative virtues.

What does the COMPLEX G5® provide to the skin?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: In vitro tests have proven an anti-aging effect on the skin, with an acceleration of cell renewal and an increase in collagen production. Thanks to the action of the sprouted seeds, COMPLEX G5® restores the dermo-epidermal barrier, hydrates, and restores radiance to the skin.

What are you most passionate about in this work of researching active ingredients?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: I am fascinated by biodiversity; I love discovering new plants, admiring them, being able to recognize them in nature when they are nearby, and dreaming of going to see them when they are far away.

In my formulation research, I delve into scientific literature to understand the composition of each plant and its benefits for the skin. Some ingredients have been known forever, but the extraction biotechnologies available today are exciting for increasing their effectiveness.

Which active ingredients have impressed you the most in terms of results?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: Each new product is a joy; it is the fruit of an entire team's work. In treating acne, I usually prescribe a compounded preparation based on retinoic acid. Its effectiveness is recognized, but it is not available in cosmetics, only as a medication.

I then did a lot of research to find plants with a comparable action. I selected a complex of flower acids, fruit acids, and celandine extract for a retinoid-like effect, a natural and high-performance alternative to retinol, and I was blown away by the results! These sophisticated natural active ingredients are very interesting for cell renewal and the stimulation of elastic tissue.

Discover the Anti-Blemish Solution, the retinoid-like treatment in the Alaena range.

How does it act on the skin?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: The solution acts by stimulating cell renewal, which helps to exfoliate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve the overall texture of the skin. It is also effective in treating blemishes by unclogging pores and reducing sebum production.

What are your selection criteria for the ingredients in your formulas?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: Above all, I define the skin issue I want to target, then I identify the treatment approaches and the needs of the skin or hair. After listing the desired benefits, I dive into biodiversity and read multiple scientific publications to select the most effective plants and seeds. This is followed either by the development of our patented active ingredients or a search for suppliers who will respect our specifications, particularly regarding extraction methods, and offer proven results.

What difficulties are encountered in this formulation process?

"It is a perpetual challenge to manage to find active ingredients that meet our requirements for safety and efficacy."

Dr. Sylvie Peres: Sometimes I identify a very interesting plant in the bibliography, but it does not exist as a cosmetic active ingredient. Then a new adventure begins for us: developing our own active ingredients and defining their extraction method, just as we did for the sprouted seed extracts.

What is the "Botox-like" effect?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: The "Botox-like" effect refers to products or treatments that simulate the effects of Botox, without containing botulinum toxin (the active substance in Botox). Botox is mainly used to smooth out wrinkles by temporarily paralyzing the muscles responsible for contractions, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

When we talk about a "Botox-like" effect, it generally designates ingredients or treatments that have a similar effect on the skin.

Which formulas have this effect at Alaena?

Dr. Sylvie Peres: At Alaena, Acmella oleracea is a tropical plant also known as "para cress" with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anesthetic, and muscle-relaxing properties. This gives it a smoothing and plumping effect.

We also find baobab extract in our formulas. A powerful natural active ingredient that combines organic acids with keratolytic and smoothing properties, for a tightening and hydrating effect. The simultaneous input of these molecules and sugars smooths the surface of the epidermis and restores the natural water flow, allowing the baobab extract its instant Botox-like effect.

Botox-like selection

Eye Contour

Radiance Serum

Intense Hydration Mask